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Maintenance Tips
- Always change the air filter, oil and oil filter on a regular basis. This is the cheapest thing you can do to prolong the life of your engine.
- Replace the engine timing belt at the recommended mileage interval, failure to do this can result in severe engine damage when the timing belt fails. You have been warned.
- Leaving your car in storage? Gas stabilizer will keep the gasoline from forming harmful deposits.
- Several times a year get a can of dry gas. Pour this in according to the label. This will remove water from the tank and prevent corrosion of the fuel system.
- Winter wiper blades are worth the money if you live where it snows. When you are driving and it is snowing your wiper blades get all frozen up and stop wiping. Winter wiper blades prevent that and give you clear vision in the winter. Save the Summer blades you removed and keep them for the spring. Rotating blades this way, makes sure you can see whatever the weather. One disadvantage to Winter blades is that you can’t replace the wiping rubber. This means that you can get only 2 seasons out of them. This is a small price to pay for safety.
- Refill your Summer wiper blades instead of replacing. The frames will last many seasons. Just replace the rubber with the highest quality you can find. There is a difference between the cheapest and most expensive refill in the longevity and flexibility of the rubber.
- Synthetic Oils can reduce engine wear to almost zero. Make sure that your engine is compatible with synthetics before using.
- Use a light or the sun to check an air filter for cleanliness. Dirt blocks light so a good way to check a filter is to place a light behind the air filter and if light cannot shine through a filter it is dirty. Dirty air filters reduce gas mileage!
- When doing a repair that requires one to remove the water pump, replace the water pump.
- Older cars can benefit from the availability of used or rebuilt assemblies to save money on repairs.
- Develop a business relationship with a reputable local mechanic it will pay off when you need him or her.
- Check your tire pressure once a month as changing ambient temperatures and natural air loss effect tire pressure. Low tire pressure will reduce your gas mileage, wear the tires out early and cause a potentially dangerous heat buildup in the tire at highway speeds. Excessive tire heat up is a major contributor to tire failure and blow out.
- If your car or truck is using oil, this is an indication of engine wear if it is not leaking onto the ground. This is not normal, I have operated several cars both domestic and foreign well over 100,000 miles with less than a quart of oil used between changes (3,000+ miles). If your vehicle is using excessive amounts of oil either fix it or sell it.
Tires
- Always get your car aligned when you purchase new tires. This will ensure that you get the maximum amount of life from the tires and avoid premature wear. Many times you can negotiate this at a lower price as part of the tire deal.
- When shopping for tires, look on the side wall of the tire for information regarding traction, temperature resistance and resistance to wear. This information is mandated by the DOT and is useful for comparing tires. A good site to visit is www.tirerack.com.
- In 30 years of buying tires the DOT tire grading system has proven to be true for me no matter what the tire salesman says. H rated tires are worth the money even if you don't travel at high speeds.
Brakes
- Changing the brake fluid will prolong the life of your braking system. Brake Fluid absorbs water, so after a time it will have some water in it. Have a professional do this for you unless you are comfortable bleeding your brake system. You will be surprised how much gunk comes out!
- Ceramic brake linings reduce dust and brake rotor wear, this is good news! Who wants to clean brake dust? We have ceramic pads for your import car or truck.
Battery, Electrical & Ignition
- Keep your battery terminals clean and the connections tight. Use a battery terminal cleaner brush. Do not overtighten!
- Battery terminals stuck? Use a puller don't pry, the puller is inexpensive.
- Battery Terminal spray or vaseline will keep your battery terminals from corroding.
- The battery should not be allowed to run dry. Top off with distilled water if possible. Usually one can pry to tops off, use eye and hand protection as this is sulphuric acid!!
- If replacing the alternator, replace the alternator bushings and belts as required. If marginal at all, replace Maintenance Tips at the same time.
- If the alternator bearings and bushings are good the regulator and brush assembly can be replaced without removing the alternator.
- Use a battery terminal puller to remove wiper blade assemblies easily.
- When replacing headlight bulbs replace both at the same time to restore balanced light output and because the other bulb is likely to fail soon as well. Consider upgrading to bulbs with improved light output. Do not exceed the wattage of the original bulb.
- When replacing headlight bulbs not not touch the glass surface of the halogen bulb with your skin as the oils from your skin will cause hot spots and early failure. Clean bulbs with alcohol and allow to dry if touched by accident.
- Car stereo speakers with rubber surrounds are much more resistant to temperature and humidity and will not get "foam rot".
- Check spark plug wires with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) or Multimeter such as the one below
 
15-Range
Digital Multimeter
15-Range Digital Multimeter
before replacing wires. You can find the specifications for your ignition wires in the shop manual for your vehicle.
- Engine doesn't start or is hard to start? Change the spark plugs, these inexpensive items can prevent an engine from starting under any conditions.
- Don't forget the ignition timing needs to be correct too.
- Volvo Engine Control units can prevent the air conditioning from operating correctly. Excessive resistance between the control module and it's socket due to corrosion or contamination can cause the Air Conditioning control circuit to fail to energize. This control circuit failure prevents the air conditioning compressor clutch from engaging and therefore no air conditioning. I chased this problem for months and the dealer could not figure out. Pressure switches and dash panels were swapped to try and fix this but this it the only thing that worked.
Engine & Drive Train

- Use a Stanley "Wonder Bar" Part Number 55-515 to seperate the inner CV joint from the transmission instead of the special tool specified by many import makers.
- If the manual says you need a puller, you need a puller.
- AutoZone has a tool lending program that can't be beat - Free!!
- Use a torque wrench to tighten critical components to specifications. Especially wheel lug nuts to eliminate rotor distortion and warping.
- DO NOT lubricate wheel lug nuts!
- DO NOT use armor all or any slippery substance on steering wheels.
- Use dielectric grease on spark plug wires to prevent sticking.
- Use anti-seize on spark plug threads to prevent seizing. This is especially important with aluminum heads. A little dab the size of a pea or less is plenty and don't get it on the plug's electrodes. Use a torque wrench to tighten spark plugs properly.
- Engine running rough? Look for vacuum leaks and don't forget the brake booster. Older car owners should really pay attention to this one as rubber items start to crack and fail after 15-20 years. Saabs typically have a lot of vacuum hoses under the hood and these need checked.
- Cracked Block? Broken plastic or metal part? JB Weld is a great solution when you need to glue or bond a surface. JB Weld is recommended for engine block repairs in the Saab engine manual.
Suspension & Body
- Vinyl Blackout Tape can serve as a useful repair for rubber trim strips or moldings. This is especially helpful for Volvo 850 owners who have had the rubber drip moldings split as these are about $150 each new.
- Pitted windshield? Rain-X or a similar product can restore the clarity and make it repel rain like new.
- Plastic polish can improve or restore the clarity of plastic lenses and dial faces.
- Use a heat gun to remove vinyl emblems and placards from cars. Take care not to scorch the paint and use the heat gun to loosen the adhesive. Be patient, if in a cold climate, warm to car to 70 degF before attempting this or the car will not be warm enough for the heat gun to work.
- Use a quality car wash soap to wash your vehicle and use a cloth mitt not a sponge. Sponges trap dirt and will scratch. Zymol makes and excellent wash and wax as does Meguier's.
- Use a real leather chamois to dry your car the oils in the chamois will enhance the shine in between waxings.
- Tire shine spray will darken the tires and make them look new.
- Back to Black or a similar product will restore the blackness of moldings.
- Tuff Stuff is an excellent all around cleaner for your car or home and can remove tough dirt. I have used this product for years and it is just great.
- PB Blaster is the best penetrating oil out there for all those tight nuts.
- When removing the lower control arm on a Volvo 850 rotate the ball joint clamp bolt to loosen. This is a tough one as it gets all the salt spray and may need some heat as well.
Buying a Used Car
Pull the dipstick out of the engine. Is it clean with bare metal showing? If yes this means that the previous owner changed the oil. If not and there are many deposits that is what the inside of the engine looks like and even if the current oil is clean the car was not cared for properly. These deposits will clean up with regular oil changes and if there was no engine damage then one is OK.
Have the compression of the engine checked by a competent mechanic. This will reveal any internal damage or excessive wear. Ask for the individual cylinder readings.
If the tires are new this could be to hide suspension wear or misalignment. Have the car aligned after purchase or better yet have the seller align and view the alignment report.
Look at the wear on the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals. Are they worn in proportion to the mileage? Are they new?
If the deal looks too good to be true it probably is.
These tips are provided As-Is with no warranty, please exercise shop safety and proceed at your risk!
Audi / VW Clutch and Brake Bleeding
Bleeding the brakes and clutch on a Audi / VW is a necessary part of the maintenance routine and required when replacing parts of the brake or clutch hydraulic system. Doing this by yourself or single-handed is almost impossible and even with a helper is a challenge. The following methods don't work well.
Bleeder Nipple Hose: The reason is that air gets sucked into the threads around the bleeder nipple on the upstroke of the master cylinder rather than being drawn from a resevoir when you have a hose attached to the nipple and submersed in fluid.
Vacuum Pump Method: The reason is that air gets pulled into the pump from the gap around the bleeder nipple threads and it is hard to tell when the system is free of air.
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Best and Only Clutch and Brake Bleeding Solution
Motive Power Bleeders Application Guide

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